Restaurants

Kavatza: 21st Century Mageirion

Kavatza: 21st Century Mageirion

Mageiria (pl.) are the old places with open kitchens that were the working-class restaurants of a generation and more ago. Customers chose their meal from what they saw simmering in the pots of the day, usually several of the many casseroles, one-pot bean and vegetable stews and more that are part of the Greek...

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Constantinople Style Spicy Cabbage Salad / Politiki Lahanosalata

Constantinople Style Spicy Cabbage Salad / Politiki Lahanosalata

This colorful salad is a classic Greek winter treat. 6 servings   2 cups finely shredded white cabbage 2 cups finely shredded red cabbage 2 cups peeled and finely shredded carrot 4 roasted red peppers, seeded and finely chopped (about 1 ¼ cups) 2 Tbsp. tiny capers 1 garlic clove 1/3 cup/80 ml extra-virgin...

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Pure Bliss

It might seem like a bad joke to name a downtown Athens restaurant-bar Pure Bliss, during the era of this city’s Pure Hell. But Pure Bliss pulls it off, providing patrons in these uncertain times a refuge against all the stress that is spreading like cancer through Greek society. The secret: a totally personal...

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Rena tis Ftelias

Years had gone by, maybe more than a decade, since the last time I had visited Rena tis Ftelias, one of the best-known Greek restaurants in Athens. Rena Tolia is the chef-owner. She’s a self-made beacon of traditional Greek cuisine and author of several cookbooks. The place had not changed much. Ornate, comfortable furnishings...

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Oinothira

Determining which restaurants one likes and doesn’t isn’t an exact science. Food, service, the glamour element (or lack thereof), atmosphere, decor and what I call the comfort zone—how good you feel in a place at a given moment in time and how easy it is to experience the same feeling upon subsequent visits—are all...

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To Kalosorisma tou Antoni

The prospect of savoring a goat-meat makaronada/pasta on a pleasantly chilly night sent me from the comforts of my apartment to the fringes of Kifissia, Athens’ well-known northern suburb. Destination: a large, pleasingly busy (it was a Wednesday night) restaurant called to Kalosorisma tou Antoni, which, roughly translated, means “Antoni’s Welcome.” The building, at...

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